Small town, Aint so Quaint

As I boarded the bus to Chidambaram, I was doing so with half dread and half anticipation. Chidambaram and my family go back in time. My mother was from around there, my uncles had studied there, my aunt lived there sometime ago. The ancient town, as I remembered it, was truly ancient. I had been there for a reasonably time about 30 years ago. And the memories I had were that of answering the calls of nature in the wild, drainage systems that reminded us of the Indus valley civilization.

As I was pulling in I saw ICICI ATMs. I was shocked for I was still expecting them to be using the barter system and salt as the currency! The city-me was feeling a little better already. We landed at the bus stand which was, as I remembered it. There was this theatre showing the tamil version of "The Hulk". I was saying not bad! Then there as another theatre called Lena showing "En Aasai Malavika" (My Dear Malavika - with no doubt as to what 'dear' meant on the poster!), I was saying not bad at all!!! Due to a quirk of packing, I realized that I had to go shopping before I showered. So I stepped out, the city boy stepping into the wild. I used my Google Maps from 30 years ago and entered the town.

The good thing about using Temples as landmarks is that they do not move much over time! I was walking on the roads that I had walked 30 years ago. At that time the distances were huge, but over time and as my height had evidently grown, the distances had shrunk. Went through the roads where my aunt lived. In fact, I actually identified the house they had lived in. And then I made this turn and lo and behold! The huge gopuram of The temple. It was a sight to remember. Went by some landmarks from my personal life like the hall where my parents got married! Chidambaram is one of the towns that literally seems to have existed in history because of the temple. Then came the University and the town had found a new purpose. The University itself is an interesting combination of the old and new. There are enough golden jubilee halls and Platinum jubilee archways to remind you of the age.

As luck would have it, there was a festival at the temple. It was Adi/Ani Thirmanjanam. There was huge crowd in the temple. Brahmin ladies in the traditional madisaar (I must admit that i was looking for Asin here!). There was dance happening in the front of the 1000 pillared mandapam. There was the Utsava Murthy of the Lord himself sitting on top of Mount Kailash with Ravana trying to lift him up! Amazing combination of images and stories. The wonderful thing for me was the catholicism of the temple. You can see both Vishnu and Siva from one point in the temple. Two huge branches of Hinduism from one vantage point. And as you step out, you can see people of other faith respectfully removing the slippers and walking through the temple. My personal woo hoo moment was the Darshan of Sivakamasundari. We had to wait for more than 30 min to have the Darshan. I was getting impatient as there was a bus to catch. Then suddenly the bells started ringing the curtains opened!!! There she was in her regal and divine beauty! Amazing Grace! Magic moment!

From the temple I stepped out to more mortal desires. City boy had to have food at an "authentic" hotel. Went to a place called Krishna Bhavan on East Car street. Old house that has been converted to a hotel. Food was served on plaintain leaves. Had the recommended Masala dosa. As divine as the Darshan! One degree kaapi and off I was! Back to silicon valley. Come to think of it Chidambaram had better roads...rather roads when compared to Bangalore.

Of course, before I left the temple I had a tete-a-tete with Govindaraja Perumal. I had to ask him with due apologies to Arunachala Kavi, En Palli Kondeer Ayya? Dasavatharathil vanda varuthamo? He was silent. Mesmerized by the cosmic dance of the Aroopa, the King of Dance!!!